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		Earthworm Biology and Production
		Page 5 of 9	Pages: 1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9
		Bedding Materials A good earthworm bedding material should retain moisture, remain loose in the pile, and should not contain excessive amounts of high protein or other readily degradable organic nitrogen compounds. These compounds would be quickly degraded with the release of ammonia and this might temporarily increase the pH of bedding material to 8 or higher, which is not good for the worms. Additionally, at high pH values much of the ammonia will be in the undissociated (gaseous) form, which is toxic. Almost any organic residue material, including plant wastes and most bulky animal manures, are suitable for bedding. Some growers mix sandy loam topsoil with the bedding material, but this is not needed and will increase handling time or costs and may decrease yields. Horse and rabbit manures are considered to be ideal. If the bedding material has not already undergone considerable microbial decay, or if it contains high amounts of readily degradable carbohydrates and other organic substances, it will heat in the beds. Under these conditions temperatures inside the pile could reach 150°F or higher, which would kill worms. Therefore, materials of this type should be composted (aged) beyond the heating stage. This is accomplished by making a flat-top pile or piles. These should be moistened, and turned at intervals to improve aeration, check on moisture conditions, and to return organic material on edges and top to the middle of the pile(s). When the heating stage has passed, material should be well-mixed and chopped if necessary. High salt concentrations may reduce cocoon formation and worm body weight, so after aging the bedding material should be leached to remove excessive salts. It is then placed in the beds to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Leaching to remove salts can also be accomplished in the beds by flooding daily for about 5 days. The process may be facilitated by turning on the third day. After leaching keep bedding material moist but do not flood, and check the temperature of the bedding material again. If it remains below 80°F after 5 to 6 days the beds may be stocked with earthworms. After worms are added, bedding should be kept moist but not soggy and turned once every 2 or 3 weeks to keep it loose. About every 6 months the old bedding should be replaced with properly prepared new bedding. To change bedding, remove the top 5 or 6 inches (where most of the worms are), and harvest the remaining worms as described below. Then remove the remaining old bedding (castings) and pile it for other uses. Fill bins with new bedding, replace the top layer with the worms, and continue feeding. Feeds and Feeding Animal manures, garden compost, shredded or chopped cardboard, wood or paper, or almost any decaying organic matter or organic waste product may be used as feed or to produce feed for earthworms. Dairy, steer, horse, and rabbit manures are excellent feeds. Low-nutrient feeds need to be supplemented with high protein or nitrogen materials such as grains, mashes, and cotton seed meal. High carbohydrate, bulky, or woody wastes should be aged or composted beyond the heating stage and then leached if excessive salts are present. If composting is required, supplemental nitrogen can also be added as inorganic nitrogen fertilizers, blood meal, chicken manure or urea at the beginning of the composting process (about ½ to 1 pounds nitrogen to 100 pounds dry-weight bulky residue). Organisms decomposing the carbohydrates will convert nitrogen into microbial proteins and other microbial products which are good sources of nitrogen for the worms. The feed and supplements can be used straight, or can be mixed with 20% to 30% horse manure or old pine sawdust or shavings, and spread on top of the bedding in thin strips or patties. This method of feeding will draw the worms to the top of the beds where they may be harvested most easily. Worms should be fed regularly, usually once a week. The best guide to feeding schedules and amounts is the rate of consumption of the last feeding and the condition of the worms. When the last of the feed is almost gone, it is time to feed again. If the worms do not seem to be growing or multiplying, they may need more protein. more...

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